Since ATCs are not assisted braking devices, it can be a challenge to control lowering or rappelling speeds with certain climber weights or rope types. Extra hole for applications such as multi-pitch.You can consider the Guide to be two steps above the ATC in terms of upgrades, which would be: ![]() Perhaps because I learned to belay on this device, I think it can be a good device to learn belaying with because of how basic it is-no detail is obscured, forcing you to see and learn the fundamental principles of belaying. Even more, it’s exceptionally straightforward…it’s really hard to set it up wrong, and while belaying it does exactly what you ask it to without snagging, extra levers, etc. It’s very light, and it can be used for rappelling as well. It is a tube style belay device without any special teeth for functionality to assist in braking. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)-I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. I will not pretend like I can give you an expert’s opinion…but I do believe it is a nuanced matter without a clear right or wrong. I also do not know anything about other guiding belay devices, such as the Petzl Reverso these too should be tested.įurthermore, if anybody has any suggestions for how to increase safety with thin ropes, please comment.There’s a lot of talk out there about the safety and usefulness of belay devices without assisted braking (e.g., ATCs). One possibility is that my specific ATC is worn from years of use, and thus the minimum rope diameter safely useable in guide mode has increased since it was purchased, but it is only a few years old and has a common amount of wear.īottom line: If youre belaying in guide-mode with double or twin ropes, best keep the diameter at 8.0 mm or above, but Im just pulling that number out of nowhere. Thus, I argue that this was proper use of the gear, and warn of this potential safety issue. Of course, 7.8 mm is towards the thinnest dynamic rope available, but the technical specifications for the Black Diamond ATC Guide indicate that the minimal rope diameter for safe use is 7.7 mm. Nevertheless, this was a fairly scary experience, since I was unsure what was going to happen. Fortunately, the slippage was minimal, and simply pulling hard on the brake strand was enough, combined with the friction between the ropes, to halt downward digression. I tried to brake the device, but this is actually difficult and awkward, since the brake direction in guide-mode would be into the wall. My follower fell, and instead of the climbing strands cinching down on top of the belay strands, they fell next to the belay strands in the cage of the ATC, and began to slip, slowly lowering the climber. We were climbing on two 7.8 mm half ropes. I was recently belaying a follower from above using a Black Diamond ATC Guide in guide mode. ![]() Here I report a failure of this auto-locking feature when used with thin ropes. It works because the device is oriented such that the climbing strands cinch down on the belay strands when loaded, halting downward movement. One excellent feature of guide mode is that the ATC acts as an auto-locking belay device. When belaying a follower from above, one can easily belay off an anchor, rather than the body, by using "guide mode", increasing safety and comfort. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a near-essential, ever-popular piece of gear designed for multi-pitch rock climbing.
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